Preparing for a John Muir Trail Backpacking Trip… Getting the Permit

I am writing this a little more than a month after completing our John Muir backpacking trek, so hopefully I will be able to offer some perspective on what worked and what didn’t work based on our preparations.

One thing I should note at the outset is that we backpacked half of the John Muir Trail (JMT).  We began in Bishop, California, connected to the JMT at LeConte via Bishop Pass Trail, took it south to summit Mt. Whitney, and then exited out at Whitney Portal.  I mention this as our planning for half of the JMT will be significantly different than for those of you who are planning a full length through trip.  So, if you are interested in hiking half of the JMT then this is for you.

For this post I am only going to focus on securing the backcountry permit for this trip, because it is a convoluted and difficult procedure that is difficult to explain and even more difficult to pull off.   But here goes.

Backcountry Permit

The logistical planning for this trip was quite arduous, even for hiking half of JMT.  The permitting process was the most difficult of any trip we have taken to this point…and we have done a significant amount of backcountry hiking in National Parks.  I am not going to talk about the in’s and out’s of the permitting process in general, only the permitting process specific to our trip.  So if you are interested in doing half of the JMT beginning in Bishop then this is what you need to do.  Being that our endeavor began in Bishop, we needed to permit through Inyo National Forest.  No matter where you end, you permit through your place of origin.  For us, Inyo National Forest was our place of origin.

You will need to know your entry and exit dates for this online permit process because you can only register six months prior to your EXIT date.  Let me write that again, you can only compete for a backcountry permit six months in advance of your EXIT date.  I know that sounds backwards, but that is what it is.      Our ext date was scheduled to be September 12, 2015.  So that meant we would compete for a permit beginning on March 12, 2015.  The biggest problem is that there are both ENTRY and EXIT quotas and the number for each is different.  Our fear was that by the time we were able to compete for a permit the entry quota would have already been met.  If you think about it, this process benefits those who do shorter trips.  If there are only 15 entry permits available for Bishop and 15 people are doing two or three day trips… the entry permits would be gone before we even get to the exit date of our eight day trip.

I hate to admit it, but we manipulated the system to insure that we got the permit.  With six guys in our group, securing six permits of the available 15 permits was going to be difficult.  And we knew that we were at a disadvantage by doing a longer trip.  So each day leading up to the beginning of the six month window, I would monitor how quickly the permits would go.  You can monitor it at  The entry you would look for is “Bishop Pass -South Lake JM21” and the exit would be “Mt. Whitney (Trailcrest Exit) JM35.”  The permit type is “Overnight Exiting Mt. Whitney.”  Each day at 10:00am EST the permits go live and the competition begins.  It lasts less than sixty seconds before all of the permits are gone.  It is serious business.  I practiced a few times by putting in bogus information and then submitting it when it went live. I got really good at securing permits…and then emptying my cart.  Ultimately we decided that to guarantee our entry permit, we needed to go ahead and reserve six entry permits, even though the exit date we put down would be bogus.  Our thought process was that we would just cancel our permit and get charged the cancellation fee, but those six spots would go back to the queue just before our real window opened up.  So that is what we did.  I secured a permit for six with our real entry date and a bogus exit date.  And then about 12 hours before our real window opened on March 12 at 10:00am, I cancelled the bogus permit.  The next morning, just before 10:00am, the quota number repopulated and I was able to secure a permit with the correct entry and exit dates.

I know this sounds confusing… because it is.  It is a terrible process in my humble opinion.  I understand limiting the number of entry and exit permits.  That’s not really the issue.  The issue is making the EXIT date the beginning of the six month permitting window.  It benefits those who want to do shorter trips and unduly penalizes those who want to do longer trips.  Why not make the six month window begin with the ENTRY date?  That way, everyone is equal and has an equal opportunity to secure a permit… without having to manipulate the system.

Below is a picture of our final permit for your own planning purposes.  Of course I removed all of our names and such.

Happy permitting,


JMT Permit


Mt. Jo- Lake Placid, Adirondacks

We took a family vacation in October of 2014 to Lake Placid, New York.  Leading into the planning for that trip I looked at the hiking options for the area.  As luck would have it, Backpacker Magazine detailed some amazing hikes in which one could see the bounty of autumn colors. One of the spreads included Mt. Jo, which is a 2900 foot mountain in the middle of the Adirondacks with a spectacular view of Heart Lake and more late year colors than you can handle.

Unfortunately for us… we missed the peak colors by a week.  Nonetheless, this short 4.0 mile circuit with about 700 feet elevation (up to a peak of 2876 feet) is a really nice hike for beginners, families, or anyone who wants some great views of the Adirondacks.

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To locate the Mt. Jo Trail you have to locate Adirondack Loj, which is south of Lake Placid, New York.  Adirondack Loj is the epicenter of several different hikes of varying distances.  There are two different routes up Mt. Jo, as you can see in the picture above.  The first route, which we took, is a more vertical and direct ascent.  The other route is a circuitous trail which is a bit more gradual, but still with some steep grades. We took this route on the way down.

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Despite the fact that my three-year old was completely tearing up the trail, he hit a wall with the boulders because he could not climb over them.  I threw him on my back and headed the rest of the way up.  I had not had a pack on my back since Denali, so it was a good work out with 45 pounds of wiggling and jiggling.

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As we approached the top of Mt. Jo, it was a bit overcast.  I was hoping for blue skies and big puffy clouds, but I can’t get that on every trip!  The view nonetheless was just spectacular, and one that we enjoyed for quite sometime as we had a snack on the large, open rocky area at the top.  We could see Heart Lake and the surrounding Adirondacks.  Most of the yellows had already fallen, which left all the other autumn colors for us to take in.  For such a short hike, it was well worth the view.

IMG_4102 IMG_4105 IMG_0385We made a quick trip back to the bottom.  The little man was ready for a nap.  Overall I was please with how he did…and how the family, as a whole, did.  The entire hike took us close to fours hours, which accounts for our breaks.  Of course, we wanted to see Heart Lake and get some pictures before we left.  I am glad that we did.  It was beautiful.

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Wolverine Creek (Unit 13) to Eielson Summit and Exit (Unit 13) Denali National Park- Day 7

Wolverine Creek (Unit 13) to Eielson Summit and Exit (Unit 13)

Mileage- 9.2 miles

Elevation Gain- 3750 feet

Elevation Loss- 2700 feet

Day 7 Denali 2

Day 7 Denali

Day seven backpacking in Denali National Park was one of the most unbelievable and memorable experiences in all of my backpacking experience. We spent the previous night at Wolverine Creek with the plan of summiting Mt. Eielson and then camping near the Thoroughfare River with a short exit to the Eielson Visitor Center on the morning of day eight.  As it turned out, we ended up exiting the evening of day seven… but more on that later.

We knew that day seven would be a marathon of a day… so we started off early.  As soon as we popped our heads out of our tents we could see that it was going to be the best day of the week.  Prior to this day we had not had a clear view of Mt. McKinley.  Either the clouds covered it or we were not within view, but this day would be remarkably different.

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We followed Crystal Creek and headed toward Castle Rock.  Had it been overcast that day, Castle Rock would have looked ominous as we headed toward it.  Nonetheless, our plan was to hook just left of Castle Rock and pass over a saddle where we would empty the heavy contents of our packs (bear canisters, tents, sleeping bags and pads) and then summit Mt. Eielson.  Of course we would have to backtrack just a bit when coming down Eielson to pick up our gear, but it was significantly less effort doing that than climbing Eielson with full packs.

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As I have mentioned in previous posts, backpacking in Denali is challenging because there are not any trails in the backcountry.  I suppose there could be some recommended routes in certain units, but the trail-less nature of Denali evokes a wild and primal instinct- You are free to roam.  And while that creates more of a challenge going from point A to point B… it is completely worth it.  Ascending Eielson evoked that sense for sure.  After dropping the heavy gear and standing face to face with Eielson, we studied the contours and textures, the obstacles, and the grades… and then we went for it.

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One of the greatest and most unexpected surprises appeared to our left as we climbed with heavy breath.  The first time Mt. McKinley caught my eye was when I stopped to catch my breath.  When I caught sight of the great Denali… everything stopped.  It was glorious, even from 35-miles away.  The blue skies and the Cirrus clouds painted a backdrop that I will never forget.  We could not get to the top of Eielson quick enough.  We knew our best view would be at the very top, but the grade was becoming increasingly steep and the softball to volleyball sized rocks were becoming increasingly unstable.  With each step we had to be certain that the rocks were stable.  Our trekking poles were invaluable, except for Josh who accidentally left his poles with the heavy gear.

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At the top of Eielson we separated along the ridge line and spent close to an hour alone, in solitude. Obviously we wanted some time to ourselves to simply take in and appreciate views which others could only imagine. But more than that, we spent time giving thanks to God for such profound beauty and freedom in the world and in our lives, thanks for the gracious and loving family members who support us and let us use our vacation time for wild and mind-blowing trips, and thanks for the physical ability and outdoor knowledge we have that enables us to go into the wild. When we came back together we took some pictures and then each one of us took turns standing on Eielson’s peak yelling to the top of our lungs “ALASKA!” That was the exclamation mark on one epic and memorable Alaskan adventure.






As we descended along the ridge line we could see storm clouds brewing. On our last day Alaska would not allow for an easy exit… and that certainly became our running joke for the last four hours that day. It was a rough descent down the mountain and it seemed as if we would never reach the river bed. It began to rain so we dropped the packs and rain geared up. It stopped raining so we dropped our gear and took off the rain coats because they were getting too hot. We got ever closer to the river bed and decided to stop for our last blueberry break. We dropped the packs again and devoured pounds of blueberries. Once we hit the river bed it was going to be a long haul to our final destination… and around each bend… there were more bends and more bends. We finally climbed a twenty foot hill to the west of us to get on top of the land mass we were trying to circumvent. Once on top we hit a straight line and probably cut out a mile’s worth of river bed hiking. We descended and finally approached the Thoroughfare River. It was our last crossing and we sized it up. Again Alaska was laughing. Although we all had dry boots and wished to finish with dry boots… there was no way to cross without going at least knee deep. Like three banshees we ran through the Thoroughfare like runners crossing the finish line.











We finally reached our destination for the night, which was only one mile from Eielson Visitor Center. As we dropped our packs and began to shape up the area the rain began to fall again and we just looked at each other. We were each thinking the same thing- we are only one mile from a bus out of the park, a cozy bed, and a warm meal at a restaurant! We were outta there. Sure we would have liked to brag about 8 days in the Alaskan wilderness, but 7 sounded just fine. The rainy and muddy hike up to the visitor’s center was a cruel joke and one last way Alaska would put the screws on us. This was NOT a leisure trail. It was near vertical and four inches of mud to step through on the horizontals. The weeds were head high and so we bush whacked. By the time we reached the top we were informed by a ranger that they had just spotted a grizzly in the immediate area in which we were hiking. Of course. We waited 15 minutes for a green bus to pick us up. I am sure the people we sat near did not appreciate our looks or smells.

Would I recommend someone backpack in Denali National Park for a week? Absolutely. But only if you have your head straight. While this was the most labor intensive backpacking I have ever done, it was more of a mental challenge than anything. Despite how difficult it was, it was one of the most beautiful and rewarding accomplishments in my life.

An edited, day-by-day version of my adventure in Denali National Park appeared in the fourth issue of Sidewalk – a hiking and backpacking magazine.


Muldrow Glacier (Unit 19) to Wolverine Creek (Unit 18) Denali National Park- Day 6

Muldrow Glacier (Unit 19) to Wolverine Creek (Unit 13)

Mileage- 5.1 miles

Elevation Gain- ~500 feet

Elevation Loss- ~500 feet

Day 6 Denali

Day 6 Denali 2On our sixth day in Denali National Park we left Unit 19, crossed the Muldrow Glacier to Green Point (for the second day in a row), and then hiked into Unit 13 to Wolverine Creek just south of Mt. Eielson.

I have to be honest and say that my two favorite days in Denali were days six and seven.  Of course I will write about day seven in the next post, but day six was something else.  We woke up to a few clouds, blue skies, and a warm, radiant sun.  We welcomed it, for sure.  The previous day we were completely soaked and spent much of the evening in our tents.  On this morning we were able to set out all of our wet gear to dry.  We knew that we only had about a five-mile hike so we were cool with getting a later start.  And, despite getting off track the previous day crossing the Muldrow Glacier… we were much more confident  crossing the glacier with a direct route to Green Point this day.

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This biggest issue with crossing the glacier is when you drop down and lose your line of sight to the end destination. As we planned our crossing, we made mental notes of identifiable landmarks within the glacier that would keep us lined up. I suppose a simple compass would do the same thing, but we are guys right? And who wants to ask for directions when we can find it on our own! :) This approach worked just fine. We stayed lined up as we kept our eyes fixed on our intermediary landmarks. Of course the biggest problem with crossing glaciers is the unpredictability of obstacles. Heading toward Green Point we hardly had any real obstacles except for walking around pools of water and going down steep embankments. All of the elevation we encountered on this day was due to the glacier. My guess is that we were under 500 total feet elevation but it may have been just above that. Either way it was easy elevation.

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Once we got to Green Point we followed Glacier Creek north until we saw the base of Eielson to the north.  We travelled eastward and just south of Eielson, which we would be summiting the next morning.  McKinley had been elusive for our first six days either because we were out of range or because the clouds covered her.  The park claims that only 30% of all visitors to the park get a chance to see McKinley.  Our best chance would be on top of Eielson.

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We followed fresh water of Wolverine Creek through a rock-bed carve out between mountains where we would be camping for the night.  Despite the fact that we wanted to be done for the day so we could pump and eat, we pressed on so that our hike to the saddle on the southeast side of Eielson would be shorter the next morning.  We would be dropping our gear on the other side of the saddle the next morning so that we could ascend Eielson without much weight on our backs.  Finding a spot to camp along Wolverine Creek was not easy because of the rocks and uneven terrain.  We pressed on until we found a spot that could handle our two tents.

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We pumped, ate, and settled down for a much needed night’s rest to prepare for the 11-mile marathon hike up Mt. Eielson and then out to the Eielson Visitors Center. Our most epic day awaited us.

An edited, day-by-day version of my adventure in Denali National Park appeared in the fourth issue of Sidewalk – a hiking and backpacking magazine.


Green Point (Unit 18) Over Muldrow Glacier (Unit 19) Denali National Park- Day 5

Green Point (Unit 18) Over Muldrow Glacier to Unit 19

Mileage- 3.9 miles

Elevation Gain- ~500 feet

Elevation Loss- ~500 feet

Day 5 Denali

Day 5 Denali 2

Crossing the non-technical Muldrow Glacier on our fifth day in Denali National Park was one of the toughest days of our seven.  We had been told at the Backcountry Office that the hike was a relatively easy hike that would take about three hours to cross.  There was a somewhat visible land bridge that connects Unit 18 to Unit 19 via the Muldrow Glacier.  When looking down on the Glacier it looks like a river of pulverized black volcanic rock.  In many respects, it does not look like your textbook glacier.  But it is glorious nonetheless.  But before crossing the glacier we needed to locate fresh water to pump.  Everything we had seen in our camping area was silty glacial melt and un-pumpable.  Fortunately we located a stream from snow melt that ran within a couple hundred yards of our camp.

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We really didn’t follow good logic on our first pass of the Muldrow Glacier.  Of course we would get another chance the next days as we passed back over, but for this day we made some errors crossing.  Not that any of the errors were really bad, because they weren’t, it is just that we took a longer route than what was necessary.  I guess the upside is that we got a more scenic route, but even with as much experience as we have in the backcountry I am still surprised that we make silly mistakes.  The issue was that, despite having a pretty good game plan for crossing, once we got down in the glacier it was difficult to see our end destination.  Being that there is no such thing as a straight line in the glacier and being that there were more obstacles than you could shake a stick at… we inevitably got off track and took a less direct route to the other side.


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The difficult terrain was degraded because of the predictable Alaskan rain showers.  I hate to admit it… but out of the seven days in the Denali backcountry… this day pushed me very close to my limit.  I think I missed lunch on this day and the hike was longer and harder than I expected it to be.  Add the rain and a cold day on top of it… and I was a bit cranky.  I really regret letting it get to me.  On the bright side… I ate TWO suppers once we made it to the other side!  I was one happy camper for sure.

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Ok… well… we all ate TWO DINNERS that day!

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The beauty of Unit 19 was that once the clouds passed we could tell that it was going to be a really special place to camp (you will see this in the Day 6 post).  This is the kind of place that really makes you feel like you are out of civilization… just you and nature.  This is the place that makes you feel wild and free among the elements.  You feel so alive.  If you are reading this post and sitting on the fence about whether you should go outside and explore… make up your mind with a “yes” and do it.  You have one life.  Live it.

On Day 6 we will be crossing the Muldrow Glacier (more directly this time) and into a canyon area just south of Mt. Eielson in Unit 13.

An edited, day-by-day version of my adventure in Denali National Park appeared in the fourth issue of Sidewalk – a hiking and backpacking magazine.


Grassy Pass to Green Point (Unit 18) Denali National Park- Day 4

Grassy Pass to Green Point (Unit 18)

Mileage- 4.9 miles

Elevation Gain- 0 feet

Elevation Loss- ~300 feet

Day 4 Denali NP 2 Day 4 Denali NP

It was our fourth day and we had just finished our first loop that took us through Stony Creek, Bear Draw, and along the Toklat River to the Toklat Rest Area.  Our day was not finished as we would board a green passenger bus and head west passed Eielson Visitor Center to a place known as Grassy Pass.  This would be the beginning our next 4-day adventure that would take us across the Muldrow Glacier and back, up Mt. Eielson, and then back to the Eielson Visitor Center.

Hiking from Grassy Pass down to the gravel bed was rough.  While there was a “social” trail that we followed, it didn’t seem very social.  It was wildly overgrown and with every step each of our boots were completely submerged in thick mud.  That pretty much sums up each day in Denali.  When you thought that there might be something easy, Alaska always had the last laugh.  There wasn’t anything easy during our week of backpacking.  It was hard and tested each of us mentally- Could we continue to deal with and endure the rain, the cold, the wet feet, the exhausting brush, and every other obstacle thrown our way?  Of course we could.  But it would take some serious mental victories.

Walking across this gravel bar was interesting to say the least.  We spotted some caribou in the distance, as they were grazing and eating.  They hardly noticed us as we were within 60 yards, but then they began to clear out.  Further ahead we saw more caribou (the women and children) also clearing out and heading counter-clockwise and heading in the distance to our left.  As we continued to walk we noticed two male caribou to our two o’clock position probably a quarter mile away.  One of them went clockwise circling around us to our right and then behind us in the distance.  The other caribou stayed directly in front of us… and began aggressively hammering his front hooves as a warning.  There were two problems. The first is that it was rutting season and the males were extra aggressive.  The second was that we needed to go exactly where that caribou was standing.  We were like, “Come on caribou.  Can’t anything be easy here.  Just move along and leave us alone.”  We were forced to swing left a bit to create more distance, but it didn’t seem to matter as the caribou began charging us.  Fortunately the distance between us was still appropriate and it was just warning us… but we picked up a few big rocks that we were ready to chuck if it got any closer.  It finally cleared out in the brush, but it was still in the area we needed to travel.  As we crossed the Thoroughfare River we went through the brush which opened up into a corridor.  Guess who was standing 100 yards away staring at us?  Yup.  He began to charge again… but we started whopping and hollering until he finally cleared out.  We finally saw him in the distance with his bride.  Just protecting his lady.

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For the remainder of the day we would follow Glacier Creek.  For pumping purposes, we had to be diligent with locating clean water sources.  While there were many creeks and rivers, they were mostly glacial melt and incredibly silty.  The silt can easily destroy water filters.  Fortunately for us with a little searching we found some clean water streams that came from snow melt on top of the mountains.  More on that with the next post.  The sun was finally beginning to break through the clouds and we found a nice grassy patch to lay out all of our wet gear for a quick dry.  I LOVE THOSE MOMENTS!

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We continued to hike along Glacier Creek for a couple of miles until everything began to open up.  We set up the tents on a large gravel bar in a beautiful spot with Glacier Creek and mountains all around us.  Just a very short hike up a hill to our west, we could see the Muldrow Glacier and the route we would be taking the next day as we crossed it.

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The Muldrow Glacier, while looking like a short, non-technical hike to the other side, is quite deceiving.  On Day 5 it would take us 4.5 hours, as we got off track and did not take the most direct route, and on Day 6 it took us 3 hours.  As we settled down into Unit 18 for the night we knew that traveling to Unit 19 would be a bit challenging.

An edited, day-by-day version of my adventure in Denali National Park appeared in the fourth issue of Sidewalk – a hiking and backpacking magazine.


Toklat River (Unit 32) to Toklat River Rest Area (Unit 32) Denali National Park- Day 4

Toklat River (Unit 32) to Toklat River Rest Area

Mileage- 3.4 miles

Elevation Gain- 0

Elevation Loss- 0

Denali NP Day 4 Denali Day 4

We started Day 4 camped on the river bed of the Toklat River in Denali National Park.  Our goal for the day was to backpack to the Toklat River Rest Area, where we would catch a green park bus, and travel to this area west of Eielson Visitor Center called Grassy Pass.  We would then backpack to Unit 18, but more on that in the next post.

Our fourth morning started much like it ended the previous day- rainy.  It was overcast with a misting rain.  We knew that the prospects of staying dry the first half of the day were going to be slim.  Our 3.4 mile hike to the Toklat River Rest Area was riddled with an obstacle course of the braided Toklat.  It wasn’t as easy as picking a side and then walking along the dry river bed.  The Toklat braided from far side to far side.  A person was left with two choices- either do a dozen or so river crossing of various depths – or- go back into the dense brush and bushwhack for 3.4 miles.  We were none to eager to get back into the brush so we prepared for a morning of crossings.


It is easy to underestimate river crossings.  A person could easily approach a crossing with an unhealthy over-confidence and pay the price with a mistake.  If you have been a regular reader of this blog you will know that we are extremely cautious and conservative when it comes to safety.  All it takes is a split second to be careless or unfocused and it could mean serious injury or death.  When it comes to river crossings a group should work together to consider all possible routes.  Obviously going with the most shallow and slow-moving is preferred, but that is not always possible.  For us there were times when a deep, fast-moving stretch would Y and make a crossing a bit easier.  The truth is that it doesn’t take very deep water to get swept off of your feet, especially when it is fast moving.  The best approach to crossing is to face upstream, lean forward, and cross diagonally to the other side using your trekking poles for extra support.

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The rest area was within sight we had one crossing that remained… and as much as we studied and tried to consider other routes… there were no other options.  This crossing was thigh high and fast-moving.  Fiesbeck got in by himself initially to see if it was possible and quickly got out.  The current was so strong that he began to be lifted off of his feet.  He said that he even felt large rocks going passed his legs.  We discussed as a group and decided that we would do a four man conga line.  We lined up, held onto the man in front of us, and went for it with Fiesbeck forging the way.  We made it with no issue whatsoever.  The only drawback is that we didn’t get a picture.

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An edited, day-by-day version of my adventure in Denali National Park appeared in the fourth issue of Sidewalk – a hiking and backpacking magazine.

We arrived at the Toklat River Rest Area just before noon and waited for a westward traveling green bus to take us to our next destination.  We would be backpacking across the Muldrow Glacier and then summiting Mt. Eielson to finish our trip.